I created a chicken cone out of a gallon milk jug, by cutting out the entire bottom and making a larger opening on the top, and hung it upside down from my wood shed. Chicken cones are used so that a chicken itself doesn't damage it's meat during slaughter. Everything else was pretty simple, a garbage can, a bucket, a sharp knife, a rag and I hung some string over the garbage can so I could hang the carcass for skinning and gutting. There are plenty of instructional videos and web sites online that take you through what it takes to slaughter a chicken as you see fit. There is no one way to do it, there are great tricks to make your slaughter go smoothly and humanely. Just do some research and see if you are up to the task, and pick a method that works for you.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Crowing Is Not Allowed
Some chickens grow up faster than others. One of our chicks started crowing at about 7 weeks old. Life on a farm can be a bit harsh at times, and sometimes a farmer has got to do what a farmer has got to do. I went out one morning to really find out which one of our chicks was crowing. I already tagged the chicks with colored leg bands so I could differentiate them from one another, and it was one of our Barred Rock chicks named "Pinky" (as he had a pink leg band on). This was my cue to get our slaughtering station going.
After performing the slaughter, I decided I wanted to skin my chickens, as I really don't want to go through the hassles of plucking the bird. Pinky was roasted in the oven with lemon pepper and garlic salt. The meat was very tasty, but was a bit tough, but it did not stop us from eating our young bird. At eight weeks old, it was more like an appetizer, but it made for a great late night BBQ sandwich. I think our next meat bird will go into the crock pot for a slower cooking time. This should make the meat more tender. I will be sure to post something about it as soon as the rooster crows. Until next time.
Two Coops Are Better Than One
In the midst of spring, with 8 new chicks to raise, and a broody hen re-introduced to the flock, I decided I needed more space to house my chickens. I wanted to build them a summer home, so the chickens could spend more time in the fresh air and sunshine, and I wouldn't have to supply a heat source when the weather is warm enough for my hens to live comfortably. More space also gives time for my chicks to grow up separate from my adult hens, and I can slowly introduce them to each other.
I had a make shift wood shed in the corner of my chicken yard, and decided it would be a good place to start. It had a roof that seemed to keep the area somewhat dry and the fence supplied me with two already built walls to work with. So I took to task building them a big feeder, laying boxes, and roosts for sleeping. I used common wood and some burlap to construct some superior laying boxes, made some roosts from alder limbs, and made a giant feeder that only requires filling about once a month. This summer coop is also tall enough for a person to walk in there and tend to watering, feeding and egg gathering.
I went to my local fish & tackle shop here and found some black nylon netting you could buy in bulk. Its used to replace the netting on large crab pots and comes in 20 foot widths and is cut to size. I purchased a 25ft x 20ft section of the stuff for about $50 and its really great to work with. You could save some money and get a hold of used seine nets from a local fisherman as well. It will keep out flying predators like ravens and eagles, but will not do much for anything else. This netting may detour a dog a little bit, but if the dog wants in, it can probably chew threw this stuff. I just needed a barrier to keep wild birds away from the feeder, as well as something to separate the chickens from each other. During the winter months the summer home will be abandoned and the surviving laying hens will move into the original coop, as it has the regulated heat source. So far the hens seem to like it, and I like having more chicken space.
I had a make shift wood shed in the corner of my chicken yard, and decided it would be a good place to start. It had a roof that seemed to keep the area somewhat dry and the fence supplied me with two already built walls to work with. So I took to task building them a big feeder, laying boxes, and roosts for sleeping. I used common wood and some burlap to construct some superior laying boxes, made some roosts from alder limbs, and made a giant feeder that only requires filling about once a month. This summer coop is also tall enough for a person to walk in there and tend to watering, feeding and egg gathering.
I went to my local fish & tackle shop here and found some black nylon netting you could buy in bulk. Its used to replace the netting on large crab pots and comes in 20 foot widths and is cut to size. I purchased a 25ft x 20ft section of the stuff for about $50 and its really great to work with. You could save some money and get a hold of used seine nets from a local fisherman as well. It will keep out flying predators like ravens and eagles, but will not do much for anything else. This netting may detour a dog a little bit, but if the dog wants in, it can probably chew threw this stuff. I just needed a barrier to keep wild birds away from the feeder, as well as something to separate the chickens from each other. During the winter months the summer home will be abandoned and the surviving laying hens will move into the original coop, as it has the regulated heat source. So far the hens seem to like it, and I like having more chicken space.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Hens ARE Incubators!
9 - Two Day Old Chicks |
We candled our eggs to find 9 viable ones, and they all hatched...except, on day two, we lost one of the chicks, leaving only 8. It was easy to notice, as mama hen moved all her chicks to the other side of the brooder box. After removing the dead chick from the area, she still wouldn't sit there for a couple of days. She settled in and we kept them in the garage for about 2 weeks. Then the weather broke and we took our brooder box out to the backyard. It took some adjustment for mom and babies to get used to the hustle and bustle of our backyard in the spring, lots of noises and we had a smokey fire going as we were burning yard waste. After some adjustment we let them roam around the yard to scratch around for the first time.
I must say its very different having a mama hen around the chicks. When you mail order them they are pretty attached to us humans. We provide the food and the entertainment when no mom is present. A mothered flock of chicks really don't want to hang out with humans very much, they don't eat out of our hand and really don't like being held.
Mother hen will scratch around for the chicks. If she finds a worm, or a pebble of something good to eat, she will not gobble it up. She will sort of toss it aside and the chicks will fight over it. They hover around mom's beak as she pecks and scratches and eat what she digs up for them.
Nick named the brown chick "Chewy" |
I think its tough to get your hands on a broody hen, but if you have the means it seems a lot easier than hatching eggs in an incubator. I really didn't have to do much but make sure mama hen was safe and warm and fed...and she did and is doing the rest. The new chicks are out of the garage and living full time in my coop, and the laying hens are now in my 'summer' coop I just built, but that is a topic for another post.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Broody Hens Are Weird
I'm convinced broody hens have magical powers. First of all, to stop eating and drinking, while pooping once every 5 days is impressive. I suppose in the natural world a broody hen would make her way under a secluded bush and disappear from her flock for the 21 days it takes to brood a clutch of eggs, only to emerge later with her chicks under foot. For a backyard chicken farmer, it is fun to see this natural process take place. Our hen is so devoted to her eggs, we make sure to remove her off the nest, and plop her down in front of her food and water once a day. It takes her a minute or two to come out of her zombie-state, pecks a few bites of food, and drinks a bit of water, only to hear the call of nature and return to her clutch within a few minutes.
Speaking of call of nature, one thing I found interesting, is that eggs and mother hens communicate. Scientists have researched this by putting tiny microphones on each egg and observing the hens activity. A hatching egg must be rotated quite often in order for it to hatch, and the mother hen takes care of this with her feet and beak, but what is interesting is scientists have learned the mother hen can hear sounds from within the egg and determine how mature they are. She will naturally move these eggs more towards the center of the nest. Also, close to hatching the chick will peep a bit louder, and signal the hen to get ready for them to hatch.
One thing that is nice about our broody hen is her disposition. Some broody hens can get aggressive when approached and practically attack you if you come near. Our hen allows us to pet her, remove her from the nest, handle eggs and clean up her space without even getting upset. Also, some broody hens are not as vigilant when taking care of their eggs, wandering off the nest for too long and switching nests can be a common thing, but our hen is very committed to her eggs.
We did candle our eggs to find two were not fertile as the inside seemed clear, and another had been contaminated with bacteria as it had the "blood ring", leaving us with only 9 viable eggs in the clutch. Naturally, we removed these from the nest. Candleing eggs is not very easy when you first try it. We kept looking at fertile eggs looking for the blood veins commonly known as the "spider". Seems as these eggs have brown shells, it was very difficult to see, but I never really saw it. What was visible later was the "air sac", and opposite that was a very dark area. As a beginner, this is probably what I should be looking for in an egg after about day 12. I assume I will learn more as I go, but that's what I know from this initial experience. It's important to check the eggs early, as it is recommended not to handle the eggs in the last week of incubation. So, from this point on, it is all up to our hen.
Speaking of call of nature, one thing I found interesting, is that eggs and mother hens communicate. Scientists have researched this by putting tiny microphones on each egg and observing the hens activity. A hatching egg must be rotated quite often in order for it to hatch, and the mother hen takes care of this with her feet and beak, but what is interesting is scientists have learned the mother hen can hear sounds from within the egg and determine how mature they are. She will naturally move these eggs more towards the center of the nest. Also, close to hatching the chick will peep a bit louder, and signal the hen to get ready for them to hatch.
One thing that is nice about our broody hen is her disposition. Some broody hens can get aggressive when approached and practically attack you if you come near. Our hen allows us to pet her, remove her from the nest, handle eggs and clean up her space without even getting upset. Also, some broody hens are not as vigilant when taking care of their eggs, wandering off the nest for too long and switching nests can be a common thing, but our hen is very committed to her eggs.
We did candle our eggs to find two were not fertile as the inside seemed clear, and another had been contaminated with bacteria as it had the "blood ring", leaving us with only 9 viable eggs in the clutch. Naturally, we removed these from the nest. Candleing eggs is not very easy when you first try it. We kept looking at fertile eggs looking for the blood veins commonly known as the "spider". Seems as these eggs have brown shells, it was very difficult to see, but I never really saw it. What was visible later was the "air sac", and opposite that was a very dark area. As a beginner, this is probably what I should be looking for in an egg after about day 12. I assume I will learn more as I go, but that's what I know from this initial experience. It's important to check the eggs early, as it is recommended not to handle the eggs in the last week of incubation. So, from this point on, it is all up to our hen.
Friday, March 18, 2011
Raise the Candler!
Building a candler, to inspect eggs is pretty easy, but since my brooding box was multi purpose, I wanted the candeler to double as a base for a brooding light, and also a base for just a regular 75 watt bulb to keep my mama hen warm as she broods those eggs. Whether I'm brooding eggs, chicks, or dealing with a sick chicken, a light source in the enclosure could be beneficial, especially if it doubles as a base for my candler.
A brooding light is a light you put over mother-less chicks you usually get shipped from a hatchery. These bulbs are high watt bulbs and would require a porcelain light socket, so I made sure to buy one of those. Also they can be of considerable weight, so I will make sure to secure my porcelain socket with a piece of plumbers tape, once I find out where I put it. The rest of the supplies were scrap pieces I had laying around the house, a round piece of plywood, an electrical cord with a plug, a coffee can, a 75watt bulb, and a couple of screws and staples.
I punched a hole in the bottom of the coffee can and just sort of made it as round as possible, and placed a wet paper towel over the opening. Then, I pulled the electrical wire through the center hole in the plywood, wired up my socket and mounted it with some temporary screws to keep it from hitting the inside of the coffee can, as it is made out of light cardboard and I don't want it to catch fire. I then stapled the wire to the back of the plywood just to further secure it.
The nice thing about this design is that the coffee can can be easily separated from the light, with the egg still in place and there is less danger of over heating. When it comes to candling an egg, the higher watt the bulb the better, so being able to remove the can or whatever you use to block the excess light is an advantage.
I tested the candler on an unfertilized egg from our flock, and it seems to work pretty good. I may want to make the hole a bit more of a perfect circle to prevent light from leaking out from the can, but I feel as though we will be able to see what we need to when the time comes. Next step is to mount this light in the brooder box in such a way that it can easily be removed for candling purposes.
A brooding light is a light you put over mother-less chicks you usually get shipped from a hatchery. These bulbs are high watt bulbs and would require a porcelain light socket, so I made sure to buy one of those. Also they can be of considerable weight, so I will make sure to secure my porcelain socket with a piece of plumbers tape, once I find out where I put it. The rest of the supplies were scrap pieces I had laying around the house, a round piece of plywood, an electrical cord with a plug, a coffee can, a 75watt bulb, and a couple of screws and staples.
I punched a hole in the bottom of the coffee can and just sort of made it as round as possible, and placed a wet paper towel over the opening. Then, I pulled the electrical wire through the center hole in the plywood, wired up my socket and mounted it with some temporary screws to keep it from hitting the inside of the coffee can, as it is made out of light cardboard and I don't want it to catch fire. I then stapled the wire to the back of the plywood just to further secure it.
The nice thing about this design is that the coffee can can be easily separated from the light, with the egg still in place and there is less danger of over heating. When it comes to candling an egg, the higher watt the bulb the better, so being able to remove the can or whatever you use to block the excess light is an advantage.
I tested the candler on an unfertilized egg from our flock, and it seems to work pretty good. I may want to make the hole a bit more of a perfect circle to prevent light from leaking out from the can, but I feel as though we will be able to see what we need to when the time comes. Next step is to mount this light in the brooder box in such a way that it can easily be removed for candling purposes.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Building and Brooding
Nicholas and our broody hen "Sesame". |
Nicholas as we build our brooding box. |
Nicholas and our finished brooding box. |
Clutch of local fertilized eggs. |
Sesame brooding her new clutch of eggs. |
The next step is to candle the eggs after 5 and 10 days under mom to determine which eggs are viable, and remove any that may burst and spread bacteria. Im finding lots of very interesting and informative info on this subject, and I will share them on my next post. For now I have to build an egg candler...Until next time.
Monday, January 17, 2011
Winter Wrangling
Winter chicken chores in Juneau can prove to be fun. Bundle up and head out to fill feeders and waterers, and tend to their litter and straw. After a two day wicked cold spell of -5° F, the chickens were restless, and could use some time out in the yard. Its warmed up now that its a balmy 30° F. Nicholas is giving them our cooking and table scraps for the day, and they seem to be enjoying it. Bell pepper tops, zucchini ends, some bread and a cookie that hit the floor make up today's treats. We have been putting the scraps out in the yard on a couple of stumps. We also put down some straw under the wood shed as sort of a 'hang out' for them. They dust up down there, and its dry enough for them to scratch for bugs. The chickens seem to like any sort of activity we may provide for them after being cooped up for 2 days.
The chickens are getting big and close to maturity, technically, they are still pullets, as they haven't molted yet. Most have large combs and wattles now and at least two have started laying eggs. Where they lay those eggs has proven to be tricky. One morning, we found one egg in a nest, and found one out in their run. Even after building them two nests the next day, complete with golf balls to simulate eggs, only one chicken used it. So, PLOP another egg down! It cracked as I'm guessing the chicken was on one of the outer roosts, and it came down from a significant height. So I lowered the roost and spread a lot more straw under it. Then the cold spell hit so I locked them in for the night, and both nests were used, as they had no choice. Now we wait and see where they start laying again. Its tough to catch them in the act, I have only seen one chicken sitting in a nest, and it was the one tagged with the black foot ring, which my son calls Fatty Bravey. This also happens to be the nest we found our first egg, which can be shown getting eaten below. Delicious!
Fatty Bravey shown in front, and Sesame behind her. |
Thursday, January 13, 2011
First Egg
First Egg! After months of cleaning and building and buying and feeding and watering and protecting these chickens from predators....the payoff fits in the palm of your hand. The first egg is probably a bit larger than a walnut, and even though we haven't tasted it yet, it looks delicious.
Nicholas was very excited, as he was the one who got to find our little treasure. I wasn't at home but I heard it went something like: "EGG! EGG! EGG!" its the kids and chickens thing in full force. Welp, tomorrow should prove to be another egg day as they lay them about every 25 hours. So an update will be coming, and I will try and get some chicken photos up as they have grown quite a bit.
UPDATE: After further research, it seems a pullet in the beginning of their egg laying, lay a single egg about every 2-3 days. As it is difficult to see a chicken actually laying an egg, we were of the assumption that one chicken had started laying eggs before the others, yet it was more like they all started at once, and just sort of took turns.
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